Interview with Andrew Jefford: Wine Journalist and Co-Chair of The Decanter Awards
The Decanter Awards are the largest and most influential wine awards globally and this year 18,000 wines were tasted by 150 judges (whose tongues must have been made of steel) in a rigorous process which ensures fair judging with the drinker and consumer firming in mind.
Libby was fortunate to sit down with Co-Chair Andrew Jefford, who has been with the Awards since they were set up 18 years ago, and ask him a few questions on his wine background, preferences and what he thinks of the awards.
How did you get into wine originally?
I grew up in Norfolk and my father was a Vicar so, though there was cider at Sunday lunch, there wasn’t really wine around. I felt there should be more, so I started making my own wine with carrots and elderflower and grape juice. It was an interesting process. So I had the practical side and then with my first job’s money before University I bought books on wine for the intellectual side. I was by Hugh Johnson and others and decided to have a go at writing about wine myself. It worked out though! I’ve been a freelancer for 30 years now.
You do a range of roles within wine, which do you love the most?
There are three main privileges of the job. Tasting, like these last 2 weeks and being a part of the Decanter Awards, the travel of course, until recently but probably my favourite thing is the writing.
How did you originally become involved with Decanter Awards?
I have been here since the first year. I was on the original panel of region chairs for Languedoc-Roussilon and then I worked my way up to be one of the three Co-Chairs of the whole Awards now.
How are the judges selected?
We want a cross section of skills with judges, so we have those working in trade, buyers, people making commercial decisions, educators and of course, sommeliers. It’s important to have different perspectives. I have a particular respect for the Somm’s palate as they’re open to everything. They taste on behalf of the drinkers. When you’re in the wine world you can begin to taste analytically and become hyper-critical. Sommeliers are really surrogate drinkers with expertise whereas others can lose sight of the fact that this is about what is good for a person in a shop or restaurant who wants to find their way to a nice bottle which will over-deliver. At the end of the day it is not how you taste, it is how you drink. Having a range of judges tasting each wine not only helps with the collegiate aspect with the work but also means a fairer judging system. After all, no palate is the same, there is no ultimate correct answer.
What sets the Decanter Awards apart?
The Decanters Awards are the global benchmark in the wine world and I am proud to be a part of that. We make a real impact on the winemakers and the drinkers and the industry. Of all the awards out there, we have the largest global reach. We receive wines from Thailand, India, Kazakhstan and our judging process is unrivalled. I truly do not believe any other wine competition is judged as thoroughly by people with wine expertise but also by those so immersed in the culture. We have experts but we are all aiming to award wines for the consumer. Not every awards system judges by price category and takes that into account. A £300 bottle of wine is probably going to be more complex and better than a £13 bottle, but that is no use if you are not going to spend £300. We make sure all our wines are judged alongside their peers in region and price.
What are you looking for when you award the highest honour, Best In Show?
There will be 100 or so Platinum award winners. Then a very top 50 out of 18,000 wines tasted. We want those top winners to be balanaced so there will be a range of regions and prices with generally 10 of the 50 selected from the “value” wines, priced at £15 or less.
They can be obscure too. We are looking for finesse, class and identity. This is not a sales-driven awards system so there may be unexpected wines in the top 50.
What are your thoughts on sustainability in wine?
It is a concern for all of us and a big challenge for the wine world. Shipping a heavy liquid in heavy containers around the world takes a toll new packaging is constantly being discussed. Glass is a big question for the wine world. Eventually we must find other options for wine that is not meant to be stored long term.
What are your thoughts about diversity in wine?
I’ll be the first to admit that the wine world hasn’t done very well with diversity so far. If you go to a tasting, it rarely reflects the actual population of London or the UK in general. There is not enough access at the root, but we are open to new talent when we find it and think that proactive choices need to be made.
Are there any new regions excited about you are excited about?
It depends on what you mean by that. Georgia isn’t a new region, there are wine traces from over 8000 years ago made in the kvevki style there, but it seems to be having a resurgence. This is actually very old wine, but people don’t know about the region or that they have won gold and platinum in the past. Technically New Zealand and Oregon are newer regions, having only happened in the last 50 years but they are making fantastic wines.
The biggest change I have seen is English wine which went from a National Joke to a National Treasure. When Peter Hall started his vineyard, Breaky Bottom, it was a huge risk. No one was doing it. I remember he picked me up in his car once and it had grass on the back seats. 30 years ago some vintages no fruit at all and he made nothing but he stuck at it and now his wines are stocked by Corney and Barrow. I haven’t seen as big a transformation in any area of the world in my whole career!
What are you proudest about with the Decanter Awards?
It is a globally respected and recognised benchmark across the world. Wherever you are in the world if you win it or see that label it really means something, and I feel privileged to be a part of that.
